Dining at Masa (Three Michelin Stars) NYC
I have to begin my review with a disclaimer — I have long been a fan of Chef Masa Takayama and so I undoubtedly have a rose-tinted view of the experience. Having said that, after dining at dozens of the top rated restaurants in the world, I must say Masa gets 5/5 from me.
Let’s start off by initiating the uninitiated. Michelin (yes the tire company) began investing into its “star” program to provide a list of destinations for drivers [using their tires]. Despite this somewhat odd sentiment, the Michelin Star is a coveted, elusive, and the gold-Standard of fine dining critique. Although it does not cover every region of the world (equally), it is still the dream of many a chef to obtain such recognition.
Michelin Stars are awarded only to the best restaurants, according to Mr Gordon Ramsay, “on the back of the consistency, the freshness of the ingredients, keeping it seasonal, and the individual flair of the chef” (Kitchen Nightmares UK, The Walnut Tree, Season 1 Episode 3). The maximum number of stars a restaurant can be awarded is 3, and stars can be (and are frequently) taken away. Innovation and continual development is another known criteria for the awarding of Michelin Stars.
Masa, the first Japanese Chef to be awarded 3 Michelin Stars, has consistently maintained all 3 — despite being less popular than some of his contemporaries back home, such as Hiro and Nobu. Chef Masa also differentiates himself in a couple other notable ways:
His well-known love for both burgers and cocktails
His ban on photography inside the restaurant and of any meals (no Instagram foodies here) ***Masa does permit a photo with your chef post-meal in front of the Japanese imported Cherry Blossom Tree, which is planted in the restaurant — seen below***
And perhaps most notably, his $595/head price tag (in true fashion, all fine dining is done fixe prix. Sushi is served “Omakase” — the Japanese sushi chef’s ultimate “chef’s menu”)
Most reviews online are mixed — many feel the price tag isn’t justified. Others feel the sushi is boring or unrefined. I’m going to address both of these comments.
This isn’t your Instagram foodie‘s hotspot. Masa offers a top-down and all around ultimate fine dining experience. Not only is the service of the highest quality (and tip free - as per the Japanese custom) but the experience is superb. Now I’m the first to admit I love photographing my food, but the omakase (and by extension, Japanese cooking philosophy) is simple — the food is the most important thing. Masa tempers his sushi, and so, every second the sushi sits it loses its perfection (they’re placed by the chef on a small plate in front of you as soon as it is prepared, where you transfer it to your mouth. Sauces and fixings are already added by the chef).
Beyond this though, the few YouTube videos documenting Chef Masa’s craft is undeniable. His care and attention to artistry - with the dozens of seasonings and toppings for a single piece of sushi - is evident. The quality of the ingredients is also unparalleled. Truffles are frequently centre stage in fine dining. Understanding the difference between a $50 and a $500 truffle is not for the amateur palette. Likewise, the average person cannot evaluate a $750 bottle of wine like a sommelier can — and that’s just the crux of it.
Chef Masa is the epitome of fine dining, from his use of the most expensive ingredients (a moderate estimate of the 20+ pieces of sushi and 8+ appetizers… and dessert! comes well over the $500 mark, at retail prices anyways) to his careful craft and mastery. Chef Masa even makes his own dish-ware, as he is a part-time blacksmith.
With the COVID-19 pandemic, Chef Masa (true to his good-natured reputation) has set aside all overhead on proceeds for gift cards, and is providing the total proceeds directly to his (currently unemployed) staff. An admirable action in my eyes.
All told, Chef Masa is a true artist, and his omakase requires a proper appreciation of fine dining to make the experience worth it. For me? I’m looking forward to when this pandemic is over, I can hop on a plane to NY, and dine with Masa again (I didn’t get to meet my hero the first time).
